Bottle Wrist Seals Standard (Pair, Spare Part)

Changing a latex wrist seal

You can either remove the old seal entirely, or cut the old seal off at the edge of the suit, leaving a band of the old rubber still glued to the suit. If you cut the old seal off, be careful not to cut the suit. You will be gluing the new seal over the band of old rubber. If removing the whole seal simply soften the glue by the gradual application of heat, or solvent. Either process will cause the glue to soften, or the old seal can be peeled off carefully. Heat can be applied with a hair dryer or hot air paint stripper on its lowest setting. Be careful not to burn your fingers or the suit. Using long nosed pliers or forceps will make this easier. Turn the arm of the suit inside out. Insert the wrist seal repair former down into the sleeve of the drysuit, allowing the former to stick out about 25mm through the end. To create a firmer fit in the sleeve, the former can be forced open further by inserting a suitably sized wedge down the slot. Turn the seal inside out, the shiny side is the outside of the seal and the duller side the inside of the seal that when wearing is against the skin. Position the new seal over the end of the former and on the sleeve where it will be glued. Using the old glue line or old seal as a guide to how far up it should go. Use masking tape around the seal (below the sleeve) to hold it in position on the former. Apply masking tape around the sleeve at the top of the gluing area, and on the new seal, behind the folded back portion. This will keep excess glue from running down and messing up the suit or the seal. Fold the edge of the new seal back down the former so that both the seal and the suit areas to be glued are exposed light rubbing with sand paper will give a better key for the glue onto the seal, then wipe over with solvent. Practice rolling the seal back up the sleeve to ensure that it finishes in the correct position.
Mix up the S5001 glue as instructed above. Coat the areas to be glued on suit and seal with S5001 using a brush. Leave until to become touch dry, about 10-15 minutes. Apply a second coat and allow to become touch dry. Roll the folded edge of the seal down over the sleeve, if this is done evenly and without stretching the seal it will finish in the correct position. Use the roller to gently work out any bubbles or wrinkles, making sure the seal fits smoothly on the sleeve. The seal should remain on the former for at least 1 hour to allow the glue to cure. Once the glue is dry, remove the former carefully. If the seal has stuck to the former use a brush soaked in solvent to dissolve away the glue.
Check the edges of the seal by picking at them with your fingernails. If any area comes up, reapply a small quantity of glue to the lifting area. Excess glue can be rubbed off with a little solvent on a cloth.
Dust the area with talc.
Suit can be used in 3 hours with care, but full strength is after 24 hours.

You can either remove the old seal entirely, or cut the old seal off at the edge of the suit, leaving a band of the old rubber still glued to the suit. If you cut the old seal off, be careful not to cut the suit. You will be gluing the new seal over the band of old rubber. If removing the whole seal simply soften the glue by the gradual application of heat, or solvent. Either process will cause the glue to soften, or the old seal can be peeled off carefully. Heat can be applied with a hair dryer or hot air paint stripper on its lowest setting. Be careful not to burn your fingers or the suit. Using long nosed pliers or forceps will make this easier. Turn the arm of the suit inside out. Insert the wrist seal repair former down into the sleeve of the drysuit, allowing the former to stick out about 25mm through the end. To create a firmer fit in the sleeve, the former can be forced open further by inserting a suitably sized wedge down the slot. Turn the seal inside out, the shiny side is the outside of the seal and the duller side the inside of the seal that when wearing is against the skin. Position the new seal over the end of the former and on the sleeve where it will be glued. Using the old glue line or old seal as a guide to how far up it should go. Use masking tape around the seal (below the sleeve) to hold it in position on the former. Apply masking tape around the sleeve at the top of the gluing area, and on the new seal, behind the folded back portion. This will keep excess glue from running down and messing up the suit or the seal. Fold the edge of the new seal back down the former so that both the seal and the suit areas to be glued are exposed light rubbing with sand paper will give a better key for the glue onto the seal, then wipe over with solvent. Practice rolling the seal back up the sleeve to ensure that it finishes in the correct position.
Mix up the S5001 glue as instructed above. Coat the areas to be glued on suit and seal with S5001 using a brush. Leave until to become touch dry, about 10-15 minutes. Apply a second coat and allow to become touch dry. Roll the folded edge of the seal down over the sleeve, if this is done evenly and without stretching the seal it will finish in the correct position. Use the roller to gently work out any bubbles or wrinkles, making sure the seal fits smoothly on the sleeve. The seal should remain on the former for at least 1 hour to allow the glue to cure. Once the glue is dry, remove the former carefully. If the seal has stuck to the former use a brush soaked in solvent to dissolve away the glue.
Check the edges of the seal by picking at them with your fingernails. If any area comes up, reapply a small quantity of glue to the lifting area. Excess glue can be rubbed off with a little solvent on a cloth.
Dust the area with talc.
Suit can be used in 3 hours with care, but full strength is after 24 hours.

The above size ranges are intended as a guide, since how tight a seal should be is very subjective.