Bottle Wrist Seals Standard (Pair, Spare Part)  Ref: BOTTLEWRISTSEALSSTD
	Changing a latex wrist seal glued to the inside of the suit To test a drysuit for leaks; Turn the suit inside out. If the suit is fitted with an inflation valve unscrew it and reverse fit it so it is pointing inside the suit this enables an air supply to be attached. Close the zip by putting a hand in through the neck seal. Insert suitably sized cylindrical objects (5cm-8cm in diameter, at least 10cm long) into the wrist seals and secure them in place with PVC electrical insulation tape. Into the neck seal insert a cylindrical object (12cm-14cm in diameter, at least 15cm long) and secure with tape. Suits with no valves are best inflated by fitting a tool made for the purpose with a connector to match your supply, if a lot of testing of suits of any type is anticipated then this tool makes the job easier. Connect to the compressed air supply and carefully begin inflating the suit. The correct test pressure when testing in air 0.3 PSI this can be estimated with out a gauge in the following ways. On suits with latex neck seal when its diameter expands to reaches 25cm. Or if it has neoprene seals when the neck seals just start to expand. Over inflating a suit can damage it. When the suit is inflated to the correct pressure use a sponge to cover it with soapy water, looking carefully for any bubbles being formed. Mark any leaks with a waterproof pencil. Keep topping up with compressed air if necessary. When finished testing remove from compressed air supply, rinse over with fresh water and allow the suit to deflate. Take great care when removing the electrical tapes so as not to damage the seals. Hang suit up to dry before attempting any repair. When refitting the inflation valve make sure it is refitted sufficiently tightly. Still getting wet when diving? If you can identify where you are getting wet/damp from the state of your undersuit then this can narrow down your search. Being in mind that if you are getting a lot of water in when you stand up it will run into your boots, this does not necessarily means that the boots are at fault! Leaks around the valves are the most common, always make sure that that valves are sufficiently tight and that the correct valve patch is fitted. Make sure that valves are rinsed with fresh water after each dive. Get the valve serviced or replaced if problems persist. By not using adjustable dumps valves full open i.e. putting a quarter turn on it towards the closed position will load the internal spring a reduce a leaks through the vale its self. Intermittent dampness around the chest on suits fitted with neoprene neck seals can indicate the seal when tucked in has folded or creased in such a ways as to let water creep down, with more care when inverting the seal this should cure the problem. Neoprene necks that are to big or suits that are too short in the body will always leak. Latex necks are generally very good at keeping the water out, however trying to improve comfort by trimming the neck seal can lead to them being too big, so only trim one ring at a time and then dive. A latex seal is not the most comfortable of things but a leaking suit is worse. With cuff seals of both types people with very pronounced tendons running down from the wrist can get wet arms from water channelling down under the seal. This can be reduced by pulling the seal away from the worst area either up or down the arms, using gloves with a Velcro wrist strap or a some people have had success with a product called bio seals http://www.apollo-europe.com/bioseals.html . Always check that your undersuit is clear of the sealing area. What happens when you lose weight? Obviously many of the most critical measurements will not change, your height, inside leg, shoe size and arm for example. The main area (for men at least) where the size changes is around the waist. This area in diving almost always is being held in by a weight belt or the waist band/strap on the BC or harness. The effects for moderate weight loss are not normally noticeable when actually diving. For more dramatic reductions (well done!) then an alteration maybe necessary. This is not too complex a job on a neoprene suit without pockets as we can reduce the size by cutting out material from the side seam, normally from elbow to knee. If the suit has outside seam mounted pocket these will need to come off and be refitted. Things get more complex on a membrane suit due to the entry zip running into the side seam. We can reduce it by some, all be it asymmetrically. Usually it is better to get a new "slim line" suit too show off your new physic and consign the old one to a back up and a reminder of what too many cakes/pies/pints can do. We think as a very rough guide that losing 0-10 Kg no problem, 10-20 Kg would benefit from an alteration over 20Kg a new suit will be needed. You can either remove the old seal entirely, or cut the old seal off at the edge of the suit, leaving a band of the old rubber still glued to the suit. If you cut the old seal off, be careful not to cut the suit. You will be gluing the new seal over the band of old rubber. If removing the whole seal simply soften the glue by the gradual application of heat, or solvent. Either process will cause the glue to soften, and the old seal can be peeled off carefully. Heat can be applied with a hair dryer or hot air paint stripper on its lowest setting. Be careful not to burn your fingers or the suit. Using long nosed pliers or forceps will make this easier. Turn the arm of the suit inside out. Insert the wrist seal repair former down into the sleeve of the drysuit, allowing the former to stick out about 25mm through the end. To create a firmer fit in the sleeve, the former can be forced open further by inserting a suitably sized wedge down the slot. Turn the seal inside out, the shiny side is the outside of the seal and the duller side the inside of the seal that when wearing is against the skin. Position the new seal over the end of the former and on the sleeve where it will be glued. Using the old glue line or old seal as a guide to how far up it should go. Use masking tape around the seal (below the sleeve) to hold it in position on the former. Apply masking tape around the sleeve at the top of the gluing area, and on the new seal, behind the folded back portion. This will keep excess glue from running down and messing up the suit or the seal. Fold the edge of the new seal back down the former so that both the seal and the suit areas to be glued are exposed light rubbing with sand paper will give a better key for the glue onto the seal, then wipe over with solvent. Practice rolling the seal back up the sleeve to ensure that it finishes in the correct position. Mix up the S5001 glue as instructed above.Coat the areas to be glued on suit and seal with S5001 using a brush. Leave until tobecome touch dry, about 10-15 minutes. Apply a second coat and allow to become touch dry. Roll the folded edge of the seal down over the sleeve, if this is done evenly and without stretching the seal it will finish in the correct position. Use the roller to gently work out any bubbles or wrinkles, making sure the seal fits smoothly on the sleeve. The seal should remain on the former for at least 1 hour to allow the glue to cure. Once the glue is dry, remove the former carefully. If the seal has stuck to the former use a brush soaked in solvent to dissolve away the glue. Check the edges of the seal by picking at them with your fingernails. If any area comes up, reapply a small quantity of glue to the lifting area. Excess glue can be rubbed off with a little solvent on a cloth. Dust the area with talc. Suit can be used in 3 hours with care, but full strength is after 24 hours. Changing a latex wrist seal glued to the outside of the suit and taped You can either remove the old seal and tape entirely, or cut the old seal off at the edge of the suit, leaving a band of the old rubber still glued to the suit. It is usually best to remove the tape from the inside suit that is over the suit and seal joint. To remove tape start at the glued down end and apply heat by using a hair dryer or hot air paint stripper on its lowest setting. Be careful not to burn your fingers or the suit. Using long nosed pliers or forceps will make this easier. Once the end is loose work back along the tape trying not to pull so hard as to break it. Be careful not to burn your fingers or the suit with to much heat. If you cut the old seal off, be careful not to cut the suit. You will be gluing the newseal over the band of old rubber. If removing the whole seal simply soften the glue by the gradual application of heat,or solvent. Either process will cause the glue to soften, and the old seal can bepeeled off carefully. Much more care must be taken when working with neoprene suits as the nylon burs more easily and if too much solvent is used then the nylon will delaminate from the neoprene center.Insert the wrist seal repair former down into the sleeve of the drysuit, allowing theformer to stick out about 25mm through the end. To create a firmer fit in the sleeve,the former can be forced out further by inserting a suitably sized wedge down the slot. Make sure that the seal is the right way round. The shiny side is the outside of theseal and the duller side the inside of the seal that when wearing is against the skin. Position the new seal over the end of the former and on the sleeve where it will be glued. Using the old glue line or old seal as a guide to how far up it should go. If you are reapplying 25mm tape then position the seal 12.5mm below the glue line. Use masking tape around the seal (below the sleeve) to hold it in position on the former. Apply masking tape around the sleeve at the top of the gluing area, and on the new seal, behind the folded back portion. This will keep excess glue from running down and messing up the suit or the seal. Fold the edge of the new seal back down the former so that both the seal and the suit areas to be glued are exposed. A light rubbing with sandpaper will give a better key for the glue onto the seal, then wipe over with solvent.Practice rolling the seal back up the sleeve to ensure that it finishes in the correct position. Mix up the S5001 glue as instructed above. Coat the areas to be glued on suit and seal with S5001 using a brush. Leave until to become touch dry, about 10-15 minutes. Apply a second coat and allow to become touch dry. Roll the folded edge of the seal down over the sleeve, if this is done evenly and without stretching the seal it will finish in the correct position. Use the roller to gently work out any bubbles or wrinkles, making sure the seal fits smoothly on the sleeve. If required the suit/seal edge should be over taped. Cut a piece of 25mm tape to the correct length, allowing a 20mm overlap. A 30mm band should be coated with glue centered on the top edge of the seal also coat the cut tape on the textured side. Allow glue to become touch dry and then re-coat. Wrap the tape around in the correct position. Apply some glue to the area below the overlap, and stick down when touch dry. The seal should remain on the former for at least 1 hour to allow the glue to cure. Once the glue is dry, remove the former carefully. If the seal has stuck to the former use a brush soaked in solvent to dissolve away the glue. To tape the seal joint turn the suit inside out and repeat the process for taping above after wiping the area with solvent. Check the edges of the seal and tapes by picking at them with your fingernails. If any area comes up, reapply a small quantity of glue to the lifting area. Excess glue can be rubbed off with a little solvent on a cloth. Dust the area with talc. Suit can be used in 3 hours with care, but full strength is after 24 hours. comes up, reapply a small quantity of glue to the lifting area. Excess glue can be rubbed off with a little solvent on a cloth. Dust the area with talc. The suit can be used in 3 hours with care, but full strength is after 24 hours. Mixing glue Bostik 2402should be used as a two-part system; the correct ratio is 100:6 by weight (approx. 100:5 by volume). If a thinner mixture is required add 20% T559. Stir very well with a mixing stick. If not mixing a full 250ml of glue in its can, then use mixing cups designed for the purpose or a clean and dry glass jar, do not mix in plastic cups as the solvents present will melt them. The pot life of mixed glue (parts A and B) is 6 hours at 20 °C. Amount of glue required to: Repair a small hole 50 ml Changing a latex wrist seal and tape 75 ml Changing a latex neck seal and tape 75 ml